Most of the inn-keepers in Fraser’s Hill are second-generation Hainanese caretakers. Nobody really knows when the tradition started, except that it sort of manifested itself during the British colonial period. Perhaps, they replaced what would usually have been starchy-suited butlers that attended to the stiff-upper lip class in the days of yore. 

The British administrators who developed the place as a retreat to escape the sweltering heat of the  lowlands painstakingly ordered coolies to build quaint cottages in the 1920s reminiscent of those in England. With the cottages came the fathers and grandfathers of today's innkeepers.

Essentially, a Fraser's Hill bungalow  caretaker’s role is as a butler, housekeeper and cook all rolled into one. They served good food and maintained the bungalow well. But ‘good food’ is an understatement as these jack-of-all trades have since come into their own with their array of delicious culinary delights that are quiet difficult to come by these days with the ever-present 'tom yam' branding of culinary styles, which incidentally is alien to Malaysia during the old days.

These innkeepers can come up with a table-spread of mouth-watering Hainanese dishes at short notice (but you are well advised to make advanced orders for your dining preferences). From juicy chicken chop swirling in aromatic brown sauce, to T-bone steaks, fluffy lemon soufflé and Yorkshire pudding or just plain fish and chips (kurau being the preferred fish), the caretakers’ culinary skills can easily be the standard for the highly-commercialised Malayan retro kopitiam concept found in almost all major cities and towns in the country today.

It was said that the first generation Hainanese who came from China were mostly uneducated but they picked up cooking very fast. Since they could not read, recipes were out of the question. They memorised everything by heart.

It is a family thing just like the tradition that is the English butler. The sons and daughters would take after the father's calling and became a caretaker. The pioneers taught their children to bake or cook. There were no measurements - it was a pinch of salt, a dash of spices or a handful of sugar behind the amazing food delights they conjure in the smoky kitchen.

In the colonial days, only high-ranking officers had the privilege to stay at these bungalows,
Dinner was a formal occasion and the English would dress for it as only they could. The 'boys' and caretakers had to learn proper dining etiquette and exact table settings and how to serve correctly.

Up till 15 years ago, on Christmas or New Year’s Eve, the caretakers would whip up a typical festive spread. You get a choice of freshly baked rolls, consommé, prawn cocktails, roast turkey with chestnut stuffing, mince pies with brandy sauce, the works.
 
The caretakers had to know their Singapore Slings and the correct mixture of Gin and Tonic preferred by the tuans and mems, and much more. They needed to serve the guests, run a kitchen, tend the bar and maintain the house. Traditionally, caretakers were only men and their wives assisted them. In those days, jobs were scarce and men were the breadwinners. To get a job, you needed a reference letter and have the ability to cook English fare.

But today, times have changed and the caretaker’s roles have been and watered down. And guests’ demands are not the same, too. In some bungalows, a caretaker just maintains the house. Providing meals is an extra service and today’s guests, a mix of locals and expatriates, want a mix of Western and local cuisines (tom yam, notwithstanding if you please).

Caretakers’ take-home pay ranges from RM900 to RM2000 per month although some caretakers earn more depending on the duration of their service and the companies they work for. In addition, they take home extras when guests cater for food — a meal costs anything from RM7 to RM28 (BBQ dinner) per person.

They lamented that the younger generation are no longer interested in this kind of job. Most find Fraser’s Hill too quiet and the highly-educated ones find the pay unattractive. Today only about 10 Hainanese caretakers remain compared to the hill station's heyday when there were about 30 bungalows and an equal number of caretakers.

The caretakers take pride in their job and treat the bungalows like their own house. They don't worry about their kids who are more attracted to the bright lights of the cities. They just work to take care of themselves. They just want to live a peaceful and happy life.