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Interior of cave at Kenong Rimba Park

A serene afternoon on placid Tasik Bera

Tasik Bera is situated in South-west Pahang, in the saddle of the main and eastern mountain ranges of the peninsula. This natural freshwater lake system, extending 35km long and 20km wide, drains into the Pahang River via the Bera River, the main artery to the north.

As Malaysia's largest natural lake, Tasik Bera is important for its biodiversity. Seasonal and shallow, this riverine lake system is home to about 100 fish species, approximately 200 bird species; and several endangered reptiles such as the Malayan False Gharial (a freshwater, fish-eating crocodile), the Striped Giant Soft-Shelled Turtle, the much sought after Malayan Giant Turtle, reticulated pythons that can grow to a length of 18 feet, prehistoric looking monitor lizards and lots of frogs species, including the great Malaysian frog that can weigh-in as heavy as 2kg.Sun rising over  Kampong Bapa,Tasek Bera.

Tasik Bera is still the mysterious and unique remote wetland wilderness it has been made out to be through the millennia. Surrounded by a scattering of dry lowland dipterocarp forests, the lake environment projects deep into the peat swamp forests.

With abundant wildlife and vegetation (there are 19 types of plants that cannot be found elsewhere in Malaysia), the wetlands is an ecosystem which supports not only a diversity of animal and plant life, but also the livelihood of the Semelai, the aboriginal people that inhabits the area.

This wetland plays an important role in flood control. The water flow regulation and purification provides many natural resources for the local community. For this reason it is protected under the RAMSAR CONVENTION -- an international treaty, which allows for traditional and prudent use. Since November 1994, the Tasik Bera wetlands, including the core zone of 26,000 hectares and a buffer zone of 27, 500 hectares, area has been declared a Ramsar site.

The Seasons at Tasik Bera

Watch out carefully for the seasons at Tasik Bera. The rainy period isf rom April to May and from September to January while the dry periods are from February to April and June to August. For fishing, go by what the Semelai say: the best times are after heavy rain. However, there may be a trade-off here as the rainy months may cause some of the best spots to be quite inaccessible.

The Wildlife of Tasik BeraShaving away the white, non resinous Aquilaria sp. wood to expose the dark, resinous gharuwood within for sale.

The whole area is mostly made up of soggy marshland with clumps of pandanus plants lining the narrow waterways leading into the main lake. Moving by boat through the channels, visitors will see a variety of plants including orchids, ferns and epiphytes sharing their positions on tree trunks due to the scarcity of land. Amidst the dense profusion of reeds and other water plants are several varieties of pitcher plants. On dry land are lowland rainforest trees and palms.

More than 200 species of birds can be found in the Tasik Bera area. Although the environment is conducive to birds, water birds are scarce. Among birds that have been recorded in the area are the  lesser adjutants (burung botak kecil), black-naped monarch, grey-breasted babbler, Siberian blue robin, crested fireback (ayam pegar), Malayan peacock pheasant (merak pongsu), hornbills, parakeets, parrots, eagles, bulbuls, spider hunters, woodpeckers and kingfishers.

Besides birds, there are about 50 mammals and about 100 fish species making the area their home. Though very difficult to observe in the wild, the jungled outer perimeters of the wetlands still support  larger wildlife such as tigers, tapirs and elephants. Other wildlife known to exist in the area include the clouded leopard, wild boars, monkeys, mouse deer, flying squirrels and flying lemur. The buaya jenjulung (tomistoma schlegeliia), a fish-eating crocodile with long snout, is native to the lake but very rarely sighted these days. You'll be lucky, indeed, to come across one. As an important biodiversity reservoir for freshwater fishes, Tasik Bera has a large number of the country's total species, including popular aquarium fish such as harlequins and tiger barbs as well as large predatory catfish and other sport fish, including the ikan tapah (wallago attu) that can weigh as much as 30kg.

The Semelai

The Semelai have existed in the area within and around Tasik Bera since over 600 years ago. Their population currently stands at around 1,300, with the majority living in Pos Iskandar, a settlement comprising five villages where they grow hill rice, cassava, vegetables, fruit and rubber trees. Traditionally, the Semelais build their homes with products sourced from the forest. Bamboo is used for flooring and the walls are of tree bark. 

With the lake playing a central role in their lives, the Semelais have adapted their ways to make life amidst this body of water easy. They carve out choice timber for the dugouts which they use to glide silently across the placid water.  Experts at making full use of what the forest have to offer, these  resourceful people make spears and traps that they use for hunting.

The Semelais use the resin from the keruing tree (Dipterocarpus alatus) for making torches, sealing boats and as an ingredient in perfume. Herbal plants are plantedSemelai handicrafts available for sale at Pos Iskandar. Photo: Wetlands International around the house to be readily used as medicines. This practice is still being observed to this day although the aboriginal outposts have medical clinic facilities at their disposal.  With their deep understanding of the forest and lakes, the Semelais are always popular choice as guides. Traditional handicrafts made from material sourced from the wetland and forest such as coloured mats, miniature boats, fish traps, mouse deer traps, axes and other items are available for sale at Pos Iskandar.

LOCATION  :
Southwest Pahang.
GETTING THERE :
Due to the vastness of the area, there are several ways to get to Tasik Bera. The easiest route from Kuala Lumpur follows the Karak Highway to Temerloh and then south towards the town of Triang, where signboards, just before Kerayong, will lead you to the north side jetties and tourism complex. A second route goes through Seremban, Kuala Pilah and Bahau in Negeri Sembilan and then heads north to Triang. Entering from the south end of the lake, an alternative route leads from Bahau to Ayer Hitam and then east towards Muadzam Shah. Look out for a turnoff signpost to Tasik Bera, which leads up the eastern side of the wetland and to the tourism complex. Travelling time from Kuala Lumpur is 3 ½  to 4 hours. Visitors can also take the train from both Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. Trains stop in Triang and Mentakab, where taxis are available to take you to the Bera jetty, about 45 and 60 minutes respectively.

Although buses can be taken to both Triang and Mentakab, as well as to Temerloh, there are no such services to Tasik Bera, making it necessary to hire a taxi. There are no local car hire facilities, so cars must be hired in Kuala Lumpur or Kuantan.
 

ACTIVITIES :
Jungle-trekking
Exploration and jungle trekking -- that's the best thing to do here. Engage an experienced guide to take you through the wild and verdant labyrinth that is the lake area. You will be introduced to many things, from identifying the tracks of wild animals such as tiger, wild boar, sun bear, leopard, and mouse deer to interesting flora.

CanoeingThe Malaysia Wetlands Fish of Tasik Bera guide book.
Go out on the lake on a traditional Semelai dugout canoe, which will glide silently through the placid waters without making too much of an intrusion to the surroundings. Observe the many different species of primates and birds. Along the way, perhaps, you can drop by on the scattering of aboriginal settlements and have a glimpse of their lifestyle.

Fishing
Tasik Bera is home to about a hundred different species of fish. With such diversity it comes as no surprise that the mainstay of the Semelai folks is fishing. It is not just rod and line -- these aborigines can show you more than 50 different ways to fish. Get the Field Guide to the Fish of Tasik Bera from the Wetlands Malaysia-Malaysia Programme. Tel: +603 7804 6770
 

ACCOMMODATION :
Although there are quite a number of operators for tours to Tasik Bera, I would recommend that you get some advice from the Malaysian Chapter of Wetlands International. Tel: +603 7804 6770 or SABOT (Semelai Association for Boat and Tourism), which is fully owned and managed by the Semelais. They can arrange overnight trips to the jungle and swamp. You will stay at isolated jungle/lake campsites with only very simple facilities to experience a close encounter with the swamp and jungle. SABOT's campsites at Tasik Bera are:

 

Kampung Chenderung Jungle Camp

Suitable for the more adventurous. This campsite is located near several challenging jungle trails that traverse the forest. The short trails will take one to two hours to complete. Longer trails can last from three to five hours.
 
Kampung Sembilan Campsite

With a beautiful lakefront view and picture-perfect scenery, Kampung Sembilan is strategically located for campers. Toilets, bathing and cooking facilities. Stay in a Semelai house, which can accommodate 35 people at a time.
Kampung Dato Campsite

The Kampung Dato campsite, which can house 20 people at a time provides you with many opportunities to meet the Semelais. Located near the cultural village of Kampung Jelawat, which is home to many musicians and skilled craftsmen, the village remains largely untouched by modernisation.
Kampung Mikok Campsite

Just 3-minutes walk from the lake front, Kampung Mikok is strategically located at the midway point of Tasik Bera waterway. Ideal for 20 people, this campsite is also equipped with a traditional house and basic amenities. Observe the many different types of aquatic plants and habitats here.
CONTACT :
Wetlands International – Malaysia,
3A39, Block A, Kelana Centre Point
Jalan SS17/19, Petaling Jaya
47301 Selangor, MALAYSIA.
Tel: +603 7804 6770
Fax: +603 7804 6772
Email: malaysia@wetlands.org.my
 
Photo credits: Semelai handicrafts, Wetlands International

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